But overall, the torching method is temporary for the most part. Many weeds will just send up shoots from the roots. The torch method is faster (no mixing) and cheaper though. Round-up costs a fortune if you are doing a large area, but it sure does work and kills EVERYTHING it touches roots and all.
Dandelions. Purslane. Creeping Charlie. Poison ivy. Canadian thistle. Buckthorn.
These are just some of the weeds that come back year after year, making our gardens an unruly mess.
This year, the same warm, wet weather that has fueled plant growth has also fueled weed growth. Already, most perennial weeds are well established, and they'll only get tougher to deal with as their root systems expand, along with their stems and leaves.
But trying to control large, aggressive weeds isn't as hopeless as it may seem. Here are some strategies for keeping them in check.
Hand combat
Mechanical disruption (the academic way to describe pulling weeds) is one of the best ways to go after perennial weeds during the growing season. Yes, it's a lot of work, but it provides two things that most of us don't get enough of: a great workout, and a keen sense of satisfaction. There's nothing quite like teasing a nasty weed -- and its entire root system -- out of the ground.
In addition to being effective, hand weeding is cheap. All you need is a pair of gloves. (I prefer heavy leather so the thistles don't get you. Oh, a little hint about pulling thistles: Grab the stem near the base of the plant. There aren't as many thorns there.)
Go for a hoe
If you don't like bending down and pulling weeds, try another form of mechanical disruption: hoeing.
It works best for young weeds, where you often can pull out the roots simply by dragging the hoe over the ground. With larger, more established weeds, you're likely to remove only the top of the plant, making it a temporary control, at best.
To go after the roots of mature weeds, ditch the hoe and choose a tool that's long and narrow. Almost any narrow trowel will do. If you want to buy something made for the job, consider picking up the Radius Garden Ergonomic Weeder by Radius, or the Angle Weeder by Garden Works.
Fighting with fire
Surprisingly enough, you can fight weeds with fire. In fact, it's one of the best and most natural ways to get rid of large perennial weeds, at least temporarily. A propane torch (available at hardware and big-box stores) kills the tops of plants. And initial research shows that fire may be better than natural chemicals at preventing weeds from resprouting. However, the roots can remain insulated underground, which allows the larger weeds to spring back to life.
Another drawback? Using a torch can be quite dangerous, especially on dry, windy days. Be sure to check with your local fire marshal before firing up.
Natural chemicals
If you're not into physical labor, there are other ways to get rid of weeds, but they involve chemicals of one sort or another.
Natural chemicals -- including acetic acid (the acid in vinegar), citrus oil and clove oil -- kill the tops of weeds. But because these sprays don't reach the roots, the weeds usually return in a couple weeks. To kill perennial weeds, most natural chemicals need to be applied as many as four or five times.
Remember to be careful when you spray. Natural chemicals, like fire and synthetic chemicals, can't tell the difference between a dandelion and your prized heirloom tomato. Also, be aware that animals may be injured if natural chemicals are sprayed directly on them.
Synthetic chemicals
The two synthetic chemicals most commonly used to control perennial weeds -- glyphosate and triclopyr -- are found in lots of products. (Look on the active ingredients on the package.) Unlike natural chemicals, synthetics knock out weeds above and below the ground.
Glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup and many other herbicides, works well on most weeds, but some better than others. It's usually not recommended for poison ivy or buckthorn.
If you are dealing with poison ivy or another vining weed, you may want to consider products containing triclopyr, which also is effective on buckthorn. As with any weed-control products, use them as indicated on the label.
Jeff Gillman, an associate professor of horticulture at the University of Minnesota, is the author of several gardening books.
Related Articles
- 1 Weed Control With Fire Vs. Chemicals
- 2 Use Water Softener Salt to Kill Weeds
- 3 Make a Steam Weed Killer
- 4 Kill Weeds Without Using Herbicides
Flaming technology has existed since the 1940s, and home gardeners can use flamers -- portable gas torches that create intense heat -- to kill weeds. Though this method of weed control lost popularity once herbicides came to market, gardeners are once again showing interest in flamers since they require no chemicals, don't contaminate groundwater and leave no chemical residue. When operated properly, flamers are a safe and time-effective weed killer.
1
Contact the fire department and obtain a burn permit if one is required in your area before torching weeds.
2
Water the soil around the weeds thoroughly before torching in order to aid in heat conduction.
3
Open the flame-adjusting valve -- the round knob -- of the flamer by giving it a 1/8 turn or until a small amount of gas can be heard escaping. Ignite the flamer using a flint lighter. Turn the flame-adjusting valve to adjust the size of the flame to a low pilot flame that will keep the flamer burning. A small flame is adequate for torching weeds.
4
Torch weeds in the spring or early summer as young weeds emerge. Young, tender weeds require less heat and therefore less fuel than large, mature weeds. Torch weeds in the early morning before the heat of the day for safest results.
5
Hold the flamer and walk at a slow rate of 1 to 2 miles an hour along the weeds. Pass the flamer over each weed with a sweeping motion, touching each weed with the flame for no more than a split second (1/10 of a second). You need only apply enough heat to wilt the weeds but not burn them. When you apply the right amount of heat to a weed, the water in the cells boils, causing the plant to atrophy.
6
Torch weeds once every two to three weeks in ongoing applications or as needed until the next frost. Flaming kills annual weeds completely but does not completely eradicate the roots of perennial weeds. With multiple treatments, however, you can deplete a perennial weed's stored root energy, killing the weed.
Things You Will Need
- Weed torch or flamer
- Flint lighter
- Spade
- Fire extinguisher
Tips
- Before torching weeds, contact the fire department to ask if the weather conditions in your area are suitable for burning weeds.
- Hold a spade between weeds and desirable plants to protect them from the flame. It is easy to accidentally torch and kill desired vegetation, so be careful to keep the flame at a safe distance from nonweeds.
- Do not disturb the soil as you torch, as this can bring weed seeds to the top and promote germination.
- Have a fire extinguisher handy in case of emergency.
Warnings
- Do not torch weeds if there is a drought or burn ban.
- Do not attempt to use a flamer if you smell a gas leak.
- Never use a flamer on poison ivy or any other poisonous plant. The smoke from burning poison ivy releases fumes that are harmful if inhaled and can damage the skin and eyes.
References (3)
About the Author
Based in Fort Worth, Sarah Mason has been writing articles since 2009 on topics including nutrition, fitness, women's health and gardening. Her work has appeared in 'Flourish' and 'Her Campus.' Mason holds a Bachelors of Arts in economics from the University of Florida.
Photo Credits
- Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
Choose Citation Style
Mason, Sarah. 'How to Use a Torch to Burn Weeds.' Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-torch-burn-weeds-96765.html. Accessed 15 June 2019.
Mason, Sarah. (n.d.). How to Use a Torch to Burn Weeds. Home Guides | SF Gate. Retrieved from http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-torch-burn-weeds-96765.html
Mason, Sarah. 'How to Use a Torch to Burn Weeds' accessed June 15, 2019. http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-torch-burn-weeds-96765.html
Note: Depending on which text editor you're pasting into, you might have to add the italics to the site name.